Telmo Rodriguez Al-Muvedre Tinto Monastrell

If you were tempted by a wine which those with the “knowledge” described as “gently meaty”, then get hands in pockets and shell out for this hot weather, Alicante gem. Sharing a stable with such other Telmo Rodriguez luminaries as Remelluri Reserva, Granja Remelluri and Basa, Almu’s pedigree is evident (Alicante + Mourvedre = Al-Muvedre). Crafted by R&H’s beloved rock star winemaker, Telmo Rodriguez, this 100% Monastrell is produced using organically grown grapes from vineyards just inland from Alicante, on Spain’s south east coast. And it’s hot, very hot, with temperatures averaging 35C during the summer months. And arid, with only up to 75 cm of rain in a year. The altitude of these vineyards, however, and the dramatic diurnal temperature swings, allows the fruit to retain acidity, delicacy and finesse with vine roots delving up to 7m on their quest for water; another feature bringing definition to the grapes. And don’t forget the moderating effects of the Mediterranean itself. The soils are mainly calcareous with a sandy, gravel composition, a pebbly surface and low organic matter, forcing the vines to work hard. Despite such apparently harsh conditions this plays straight into the hands of Telmo and his creative genius. The grapes are hand harvested and fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel and aged in the same tanks for 6-8 months prior to bottling. The resulting wine is a deep, blackish purple with a delicate floral nose overlapping a dried figgy meatiness. The surprisingly medium-bodied palate delivers sweet blueberries, redcurrants and a strand or two of tobacco-esque liquorice, all the while offering a vein of acidity keeping things fresh and invigorating. The finish has a soft grippiness, a touch of pepper and doesn’t want to just vanish. Iberians, Phoenicians, Romans and Moors were definitely onto a good thing in Alicante. Mr Rodriguez knows. So should you.