La Soufrandière Saint-Véran La Bonnode Cuvée Zen

La Soufrandière, the estate of Bret Brothers Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillame, has a series of “Zen” versions of multiple cuvées, reaffirming their already impressive environmental credentials. The La Soufrandière estate was certified organic and biodynamic in 2006 and continues to impress both customers and contemporaries alike with their dedication to nature and the unarguable quality of their finished products. La Soufrandière is in Vinzelles, in the Macon region of southern Burgundy, with vines aged between 33 and 80 years old, east or southeast facing and growing at the top or halfway up slopes of red clay and crinoidal limestone (a type of limestone rock containing crinoid fossils. Crinoids were a common shallow water animal described as ancient “sea lilies” found in the Jurassic period). So the Zen? Basically no added sulphur till bottling and then only 20 mg/l, which is 0.02 of a ml. Pretty small amount. Non certified organic wines can contain as much as 210 mg/l. According to the brothers, the Zen wines are “more open, expressive and vibrate with an almost magical energy”. Just for the record and to assuage curiosity, here are some examples of Bret Brothers’ biodynamic preparations: matured cow dung for the soil, silica for the foliage and for healthy, balanced grapes infusions of horsetail, nettle, osier, dandelion or valerian. All guided by cosmic activity. Very fascinating and merely the tip of the biodynamic iceberg. This harmonious relationship between terroir, vines and vigneron and the overarching respect for nature shows in the La Soufrandière wines. La Bonnode Zen is 100% Chardonnay, hand harvested with the grapes gently pressed for 3 hours before a natural yeast fermentation in old oak. Malic acid is converted to lactic acid and the wine is aged for 17 months in barrels and tanks. The finished wine is neither fined nor filtered. A flurry of floral and orchard fruit aromas strikes first before opening into a mist of citrus whizz. The pear and apple fruitiness is ripe and crunchy with gentle touches of smoky minerality. The acidic tang is wonderfully balanced drawing out a long, complex, slightly peppery finish. Got to hand it to these boys, Brothers Grim they certainly are not. And the Zen range is very, very limited edition. Strike while the iron is hot.