Candialle Chianti Classico Riserva

In a nutshell, basic Chianti Classico must have at least 12 months ageing whereas a Chianti Classico Riserva must be aged for 24 months. Here we return to Chianti’s golden bowl, “Conca D’Oro”, deep in Tuscany where Sangiovese rules the roost. The friable galestro soils, (crumbly clay-marl soil high in limestone, and yes, I had to look up what friable meant), altitude and large diurnal shifts combine beautifully to indulge the Sangiovese vines. Josephin and Jarkko Peränen see their viticulture as regenerative, encouraging native plant growth, the bare minimum of vineyard mechanisation and an environmentally friendly but strict approach to yields ensuring the uniqueness of the Candialle wines. Jarkko has also been studying research looking at yeasts in the vineyard. Recent Italian research found that the stomachs of wasps and hornets are full of yeast. They eat ripe grapes, some of which have already started fermenting on the vine because of damage. The yeasts overwinter in their stomachs. Then the insects spread these yeasts back onto the vineyard in the spring. A surprisingly large number of strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae (brewer’s yeast) were found in the wasp stomachs: as many as 300. Many were wild strains but some were commercial isolates. Intriguing. And native yeasts are used to ferment this Riserva. Right, down to the drinking: savoury red fruits, touches of violet, earth, spice and a nod to liquorice with a tangy and minerally cherry depth. Look out for the chalky tannins on the long, mouthwateringly elegant finish. And two Highland Cows provide manure to kickstart the homemade composts. And probably a bit more to just spread about.